Would be nice to see W&S in the style breakdown series. Good suits can look terrible; bad ones good. Your website is an amazing read. Some of us surely do not desire to try out lots of tailors but love and romantically hatch the idea of naturally having your tailor where you get many different things from over the years and build a trusting relationship. Im looking forward to stopping by! Also, is it usually preferable to have the person you first meet about a garment also do the pattern and fitting? In terms of an every day style for work, would you so this would be more suitable than Edward Sexton? Or perhaps heard anything about his work? You just need a shirt collar that is cut to stand up out of that collar when undone, not collapsing underneath it. I look forward to reading about your experience in the near future. To be worn with knit ties and open neck shirts to dinners and casual events in summer? At this stage of your life, I wouldnt stretch to one of the others. Will introduce myself soon when I see you around. Simon. Thanks!! Many have looked at his handwork and been amazed, more so when they hear about his prices. There is a tremendous amount of added value in their product the Savile Row cache, the fact theyre actual tailors and not salesmen which I dont think is being communicated in the price. In other words, when you order a bespoke suit, youre effectively speaking for that piece of clothing telling the tailor exactly what you want it to look like and how you want it to fit.Bespoke suits are usually made from higher-quality materials than ready-to-wear or off-the rack suits, and theyre designed to last longer. B.) That makes more sense. The finishing on the lining isnt quite as neat but as you can see on the images above, its still good. Today I met with Tim Everest, W&S, C&D, and Gieves & Hawkes. For example, can the lapel width (not shape necessarily) be extended slightly? One thing I worry about is whether their business model and pricing is viable in the long term. Wonderful site! I will take your advice and go with Whitcomb then. Also for the sake of comparison would the drawbacks of mtm for soft tailoring (disregarding fit as obvious) be less of the hand details. Ultimately, the tailor will be chosen to suit my budget. You described some English suits as cuted with small drape (e.g. Thanks Simon. Simon are you familiar with Redmayne 1860s MTM service and, if so, between Redmaynes 1860 Acclaim MTM and W&S classic bespoke, which would be better quality? Yes I would. I wouldnt go if you want that strong shoulder, no. The biggest danger is when you get to structural things (eg shoulders) or things that arent linear and therefore easy to describe (eg the shape of a lapel). After realizing what such refined raiment can do for him both physically and psychologically, it is the rare man who does not become a convert for life. Every aspect of the garment from the fabric to the style is customized and tailored for your unique body. The measurements will be precise and the fit will be impeccable.Finally, bespoke suits often come with special features or details that tailored off-the-rack suits simply cant match. So I would go to Sexton for their style, and to Whitcomb for theirs. After much internet research and reading your recommendation I have taken the plunge with W&S. Is it possible to request a little bit less drape from W&S? Thank you. My first British bespoke suit was last year, and if I had known about them I might well have talked to W&S. It looks great. When buttoning I believe this creates a line along the right side of the jacket and most importantly pushes the collar up and it doesnt stay flush to my neck. (And which?). And great work on the site, a unique and reliable resource! The cut of this coat gives, to my eyes, a pyramid shape with your shoulders narrower than hips/waist. I particularly like the drama of Edward Sexton cuts in subtle fabrics, similar to your grey flannel suit. The strange thing is that this occurs in three different suits from 2 different makers with 3 fittings each. And would you recommend stretching out a bit more and getting full bespoke from Anderson Sheppard (5,700 I think) or do you think it would be better to get W&S or Huntsman? Very compelling offering, thanks for covering. W&S is much superior that is a bespoke suit, cut by a Savile Row-trained tailor, where the others are just MTM. It does not matter if WS are getting some part of the work done in India, the suit looks fantastic in the photos. Is your W&S suit cuted with a similar amount of drape or more? I tried them at home but was not convinced, so i went back in and saw a third fitter (not sure where they get people from when John is not available) who agreed they were too baggy, and alterations were appropriately made. Your readership is worldwide but surely many are based in the UK and would be interested in the coverage. Our coats are fully handmade with floating canvases. So the variation in style is house to house, rather than cutter to cutter. Our bespoke suits are made without compromise by the best craftsmen in Savile Row. One of the reasons rate Whitcomb is the presence of cutter John McCabe. Fit not good. What you may not know, though, is that while the name sounds traditional, Whitcomb & Shaftesbury has built its reputation for quality by doing things differently. "Artisan of the Year 2021" - Permanent Style I also havent asked about those kind of changes, so Im not sure. Im soon travelling to London, and am interested in a soft shouldered jacket or two. Such are the hassles of bespoke tailoring. They are very different prices, qualities and styles. And 100 Hands does shirts in India but as the quality is so high, its still expensive, I had a navy worsted two piece suit made at W&S which was cut by Sian. Bravo Simon, you sound extremely pleased with it. For Whitcomb & Shaftesbury i cant say that i feel they provided a great deal of guidance. Cloth - Suits Read More Artisan of the Year 2021: Whitcomb & Shaftes. I was able to travel to London to meet Sian for the basted fitting. Hi Simon. Interestingly, there is also quite a lot of drape to the chest something I like on my Anderson & Sheppard suits both for their comfort and impression of a bigger upper body. possibly a slightly unusual choice Id like you to ask about, purely subjective of course: for a first bespoke commission, if your budget was a tad higher then W&S classic say 2000-3000 would you still choose them (and add an extra trouser to get to 2k+) or go with one of the cheaper Italian tailors, say Vergallo or Solito, (at around 2200 2500) or give a young / next generation Saville Row cutter a chance (e.g. It looks a bit like Anderson & Sheppard and Dege & Skinner. Thanks Simon. Hey Justin. A.) Simon I live in Geneva but get over to London at least once a year sometimes up to 3 times a year although never with any great predictability. If you are buying off-the-rack clothes, they are tailored to fit you. After giving myself a headache of what tailor to try next after a poor experience from a new(ish) city tailoring firm (that shall remain nameless), I commissioned a new suit from GB in Dec. I question, upon reflection, if you can go to Spain and Italy (and India via W & S) might we see a time when you take into consideration the many fine UK tailors at points outside of London. It is made to the same standards, by people with the same training, with most of it (pattern, cutting, fitting, alteration) still done in London and the heavy-lifting done in India. Today, the Chennai workshop employs 37 coat makers and trouser makers, all of whom receive in-person training and mentoring from Whitcombs cutting team, who fly out frequently on rotation. The timeline is very similar to other bespoke offerings usually 4-6 weeks between each stage, often quicker towards the end. Im more interested in the actual craft. And what determines if one should have flap pockets, ticket pocket and turn ups on trousers or not? I wouldnt prioritise that over a colour of cloth I preferred, for example. The hip/shoulder relationship isnt quite like that in reality, but it is close something that comes inevitably from my small shoulders and large bum. However even though we probably buy the same brands (and silks) my four-in-hand tends to come out smaller and less tilted. 4,523 followers. Ive had a few suits made in Hong Kong in the past but am thinking of a step into English bespoke or MTM however I dont really want to spend more than say 1500 as I want to leave budget for bespoke shirts (just placed my first T and A order) but how would you compare this suit with a MTM from Thom Sweeney which is around the same price? Id say they are both very good. I hesitate to say Whitcomb have done something wrong, as my experience and that of others has been so good, but that sounds like the most likely conclusion. I appreciate that both of these are at the low-end of bespoke service, so perhaps my expectations were to high, being first-time bespoke? They will be very different to GB, in cost (more), in quality (higher) and in style (very soft, opposite of GB). Insisting on something still identifiable as W & S, bearing Bob and Johns beautiful fingerprints but of much softer construction, I was reassured with confidence by Suresh. In our opinion, Whitcomb and Shaftesbury as a brand are the epitome of style and sophistication. About a year into running the business, purely as a made in London bespoke tailor, the Ramakrishnans decided to support a charity program called Children of the World in the wake of the 2004 tsunami, which devastated large parts of India. Looking forward to your thoughts. Very flattering! Are there any other tailors in the Milan/Northern Italy area that I should consider as well, that would be great starting points to the high-end bespoke world? Its more about opening up the possibilities, rather than providing something concrete and narrow. After reading your reviews, I am definitely considering the W&S Classic Bespoke offering. Another question: in another post you mention desiring to be measured at the house itself; a friend of yours had gone to a trunk show and did not receive good results with fit. From Suits to Shirts: The 19 Best Bespoke and Made-to-Measure Menswear Shops in NYC, The 15 Best New Pieces of Winter Menswear to Buy This Week. Thanks Simon for this wonderful blog, Drakes MTM program is priced only slightly above its RTW, so its something Ive wondered about a lot as I try and build my own tailoring wardrobe, especially of softer styles. Could you also compare the house styles of both tailors? And a pair of flannel trousers? In terms of house styling, who would you compare W&S to? The shoulder fit looks (to me) the best of your suits on here. How flexible would you say they are in terms of cut, construction etc? I really like the dramatic asymmetry in your tie knots. To book a trunk show appointment, email Karen Weyer at karen@whitcombshaftesbury.com. Includes access to the digital magazine. I just wonder if for something traditional and rarer like morning dress they would be able to help guide me through the process as well as A&S. Basted fitting of guidance & amp ; Shaftes met with Tim Everest W., not collapsing underneath it out of that collar when undone, not collapsing it! S in the near future isnt quite as neat but as you can see on the lining isnt quite neat. I see you around ones good to me ) the best of your suits here! The cut of this coat gives, to my eyes, a pyramid shape with your shoulders narrower than.. Clothes, they are very different prices, qualities and styles about is their... That collar when undone, not collapsing underneath it variation in style is customized and tailored for your unique.. 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